Aug_06
Dragging pegs, or not

Single track vehicles and curves are the “cat’s meow”! Hard to beat the feeling of carving through a nice set of sweepers out in the countryside. Unfortunately, too many motorcycle accidents occur when riders fail to negotiate curves. In fact, it is the number one class of single vehicle motorcycle accidents.

To negotiate a curve or corner successfully requires the proper line at the proper speed. We have all heard line high to low to high, push in the direction of the turn and roll on the throttle through the turn. Sounds simple enough, tell me this, where is high, what is meant by low and just how much throttle roll is needed.

Attacking the radius of the curve by squaring it off is the high/low/high. We set up the outside so our line of travel drops lowest through the apex of the curve and opens up the far side for building speed. Pushing the bar to counter steer is how bikes are controlled at rolling speed (body English results in counter steering but without the control). Rolling the throttle keeps the bike tight through the drive line and suspension.

First and foremost, approach speed has to be within the parameters that the bike you are riding can negotiate the radius of the curve. From Sportsters, to Dynas, Softails to V-rods, road couches to Buels, each model within each class has its own limitations. Exceed those limits and the motorcycle will not make the turn, gravity is a mother, and she always wins. The simplest way to establish the appropriate speed is by those little signs before curves. Don’t say a word. The signs will state what engineers determine to be a safe speed, a good starting point, especially on an unfamiliar road, of course surface conditions of the road will affect this immensely.

Picking the line to “work” the curve is basically, more and art than a science. Experience is the teacher here, just remember, your body with your bean on top extends above the bike, cutting too close on inside curves can result in your helmet being in the wrong lane, think about that. Following the suggested speeds will allow you to take the wheel tracks safely through the turns.

Pushing the bar is just that simple, want to break right, push the right grip, amazing isn’t it? Now I will climb on my soapbox: ergonomics people, you don’t need to hit the steering locks at highway speed so having that much leverage isn’t required, but, in your riding position you have to be able to index those bars right and left a considerable degree when the situation demands it. Final rant, if you are sitting there astraddle, leaning forward with arms fully extended, how are you going to turn?

Rolling on the throttle is just what it says. Notice rolling, not cracking snatching or pinning. A smooth increase in power is what is called for here. Too many bad things happen when we get snatchy on the throttle, torque is a wonderful thing, but breaking a tire loose in the middle of a curve has a bad ending written all over it. Of course if the curve is entered too fast, remember from your riding classes, braking in a curve is not easy.

Okay, lecture over. Throughout this writing I beat to death the issue of speed and curves. As my floor boards attest, I am one to enjoy the curves as much as the next person, after all, motorcycle riding is something to be enjoyed. Keep your head in the game, enter the curve and come out!

“Whoa Nelly”… pulling down the iron steed or a little too fast you say

There always comes a time when we as riders need to reduce our speed, most times it is under normal conditions, others it is a bit more stressful. Chopping speed is not all that complicated, but there are things that must always be considered in determining the technique being used

When there is the need to reduce speed a few miles per hour (mph’s) the most basic method is simply rolling off the throttle the appropriate amount and allowing the compression of the motor to pull your speed down. I am not of fan of high rpm downshifting to pull speed down fast, brake pads are cheaper than other parts, even though I have been known to back it down to listen to the pipes bark.

Riding under normal conditions, clean hard surfaced dry roads generally firm squeeze of the front lever, steady pressure on the rear lever and of course, off throttle, brings the bikes speed down. It is surprising how much pressure you can place on the levers when in time of need, such as panic braking for the idjit in the Buick that just pulled out in front of you. No, the front wheel won’t lock and flip you (it can skid though, but that takes a lot of pressure).

If the road surface doesn’t meet these criteria it opens a whole new ball game. Wet roads and heavy braking are not good friends! True we do get adequate traction with serviceable tires at proper pressure, but any irregularity (paint stripes, oil slicks, tar snakes or pavement cracks) can cause a temporary loss of traction and interesting things happen then. The laws of nature will take over and the bike will move in the direction of the greatest force acting upon it. Recoverable? Yes but one cant just be sitting in the saddle day dreaming. No, there isn’t a pat answer as to what actions to take keep your weight centered, your seat firmly planted, and a solid grip on the bars in preparation for the sudden return of traction.

Sand, salt and gravel on road surfaces play havoc also. The general rule of thumb is to not grab a lot of front brake when the surface is covered in ball bearings. Basically all that can be said on that, you are not going to shut down quick on those surface conditions. Same rule applies to gravel parking lots or any slow speed maneuver for that matter. Your rear brake is your friend, grab too much (which isn’t much at all) front brake and you will plow with unpleasant results for your chrome. Remember, gravity rules.

Braking is a skill requiring practice to be good at it. Anyone can stomp and grab the results will be up in the air if the conditions are not considered. Practice makes perfect, pads are cheap. And please, grab that front lever with a full hand.